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Lesson 9.1

French Lunéville Embroidery: Fish Scale Sequin Rays

In this lesson, you will practise fish scale embroidery with larger sequins using the French Lunéville technique. Following a pattern of radiating lines, you will alternate plain stitches with sequin rows so the sequins follow a consistent direction. You will also personalise the centre with your preferred bead or sequin filling.

Materials to Prepare

  • Embroidery frame with fabric mounted under tension

  • Printed ray pattern

  • Sharp pencil

  • Lunéville hook and embroidery thread

  • Larger pre-threaded sequins

  • Thread bobbin

  • Beads or sequins for the centre

Learning Outcomes


By the end of this lesson, you will be able to:

  • Transfer a radiating pattern using all the guidelines or selected rays.

  • Prepare threaded sequins for French Lunéville embroidery.

  • Alternate plain travelling stitches with directional sequin rows.

  • Use short securing stitches before moving between rays.

  • Stitch close to an existing chain without reusing its holes.

  • Choose a decorative filling for the centre.

Your Practice


Print the pattern and transfer the ray guidelines onto your fabric. You may copy every ray or mark every fourth ray, as demonstrated.

With the reverse side facing you, transfer the larger sequins onto your embroidery thread and keep the bobbin beneath the frame. Make a starting lock at the top of the first ray and attach sequins along the drawn line.


Add a short securing stitch and move to the next ray. Follow it with plain stitches, secure the turn, then work back with sequins close to the stitched chain. Avoid inserting the hook into the same holes. Repeat this sequence for the remaining rays.


Fill the centre using your preferred method. Try winding vermicelli stitches with beads or experiment with sequins to complete the motif.

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