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Lesson 8.2

French Lunéville Coil Embroidery: Filling a Petal with Cupped Sequins

In this lesson, you will develop your coil embroidery skills using French Lunéville beadwork and cupped sequins. Working from the reverse side of the fabric, you will outline a petal with beads, then fill it with flowing curves, adding one sequin at every second stitch. An Elie Saab presentation and examples of previous work show how similar techniques can be used in decorative motifs and garment embroidery.

Materials to Prepare

  • Embroidery frame with mounted fabric

  • Lunéville hook

  • Embroidery thread

  • Pre-threaded beads

  • Pre-threaded cupped sequins

  • Bobbin for your threaded materials

  • Pencil suitable for marking your fabric

  • Scissors

Learning Outcomes


By the end of this lesson, you will be able to:

  • Draw a petal or another chosen shape on the reverse side of the fabric.

  • Embroider its outline with beads using the French Lunéville technique.

  • Secure the outline’s thread ends before beginning the filling.

  • Create curved filling lines with one sequin at every second stitch.

  • Supply individual sequins without catching several together.

  • Bring the filling to the border to preserve a clearly defined shape.

  • Recognise variations using thread, beads, and sequins.

Your Practice


With the reverse side of the fabric facing you, draw a petal or another shape of your choice. Embroider its outline with threaded beads, then cut the thread and secure both ends.


Prepare your threaded cupped sequins and make a new starting lock. Fill the shape with flowing curves, alternating one plain stitch with one stitch carrying a single sequin.


Continue the curves to the outline so the filling reaches the edges and preserves the shape. Take care to supply only one sequin at a time.

Review the examples included in the lesson and observe how changing the materials or adding an accessory to every stitch creates different filling effects.

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